gr5

I think you are just going to have to go with gyroid and drill a hole 😞

You *can* remove the bottom layer of your model by setting "bottom layers" to zero but that will probably mess up your artistic model in dozens of places. For example on the underside of the chin of a person's head - the infill would be exposed (image is looking up from below the build plate)

@MariMakes - I can't get it to work either. We are doing something wrong. I tried both cura 4.12 and 5.0:

Just to clarify - when you soak your parts in water, sometimes water gets inside the part where it shouldn't be possible (but there are often imperfections/holes. And that water is difficult to get out again. In addition to what mari suggests, I recommend you use an infill pattern that allows water to drain okay. Most infill patterns create many separate internal volumes that are not connected. You want a pattern that lets water/air travel around inside the part. I recommend: gyroid

This is why I mentioned you contact your reseller. These files are basically hidden by Ultimaker - I assume because there are special things to know about each version. With the chip shortage the last few years, sometimes it matters what your serial number is versus some obscure bug that only affects 3 printers or something. I don't know. But the point is the resellers can help you with this. Since it looks like you are in USA you can alternatively contact fbrc8.com which builds all the Ultimaker printers ever sold in USA so they built your printer. support@ultimaker.com and include the serial number of your printer as if you don't they will just ask you that so save yourself a step. fbrc8 has a fantastic support staff. Very knowledgable. Smarter than me. I could be wrong but it sounds like your flash drive got a bunch of bad blocks. It will keep remapping them until they are all hidden away but meanwhile you may have to re-install the firmware a few times. If it were me I would just reinstall 7.1.3. Each time you do, if any bad blocks are found they are mapped away and you will have to do another install. If it's *not* your flash drive then I have no idea. In that case the log file might be helpful. But you can't get the log file unless the printer boots or is in maintenance mode or unless you buy a serial cable to talk to the linux box directly allowing you to watch it boot up and gain control when it gets an error.

@nallath - take note!

If the dotted lines are visibile in preview then you can definitely remove them with various wall settings. If the dotted lines are only visible in real life then it's probably underextrusion which can happen for many reasons (speed changes, retraction, slow travels such that some filament leaks out, and more).

Maybe you could show what you are talking about with a screenshot in PREVIEW mode of cura? You should always make the line width match the wall width (wall width should be an integral multiplication of line width). Always. Always! So that 0.4/1.0 mismatch is a red flag right there. But may be unrelated. Otherwise you can get annoying fudges that print with different widths and fills. Now you have a special case where you actual model also has very thin "walls". not to be confused with the "wall" settings in Cura. Cura considers a wall the outermost layers of your model. Each of what most people would call a "wall" of your model contains 2 of what Cura considers to be a wall. one on the outer surface and a second wall on the inner surface. It's confusing. I know. And extremely important to understand the above paragraph when slicing thin models like yours. Maybe a better way I can explain: The red and green lines in PREVIEW mode are walls. Each of your model's walls have two sets of those. Anyway, Cura 5.X does a better job with thin walled parts like yours. And there are options to mess with (line width is most important to experiment with - for a 0.4 nozzle you can go 0.35 to 0.5mm line width without much trouble). "print thin walls" is a key thing to play with in cura 4.X.

Thanks Carlo. I got confused as there was someone else with an S5R2 also this week.

That sucks. Here's the relevant schematics of the PCB in the print head. The SDA/SCL signals come from the cable. I guess I'd try one last thing - if the side fans work or if you can dim and brighten the "frame" lights form the maintenance menu then then the problem is in the print head as you can see. If all 3 things are broken then it's more likely a problem at the other end of that cable you checked. Most likely it's the PCB in the print head. You can order another one. You might not see it in the website store of your reseller but it's definitely available. And if your unit is still under warranty it should be free. It's most likely the transistor Q1. If it were me I'd just short out tp1 to ground so the fan is simply always on. Annoying but at least the printer will start working again.

Did you ever resolve this? It's hard to help you when it takes 4 weeks to get answers to questions but we want to help.

Better instructions here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360019088780-Firmware-recovery-Ultimaker-S3-and-Ultimaker-S5

You can do it yourself: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360019088780-Firmware-recovery-Ultimaker-S3-and-Ultimaker-S5 I have links to some of the older versions of the firmware if you are trying to avoid the latest and your reseller will have MANY versions of older firmware but if you just want the latest then just click the link.

Hello? Are you all set now?

Often it's the printhead cable that is loose for these types of things so check that first as it is so easy and trivial to do so (takes a minute once you find the hex tool). The cable along the bowden is constantly pulling upward and it can gradually pull the cable out. Keep in mind that the cable is held in by a clip so don't just try to pull it out without squeezing the clip thing. Instructions: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004226246-Printhead#“printheadcable"

Wait - do you want travel moves to avoid an area? There is an option called "avoid printed parts when travelling". Maybe that's what you want?

There are 2 types of travel moves - those with retraction and those without. Are you trying to say you want "no retraction" in a certain area? Or do you want it to do "always retraction" in a certain area? You can use an STL model/mesh as a support blocker but you can also use it to modify many of the settings. 45 different settings it looks like. But none of the "Travel" settings are included in that list of 45 settings unfortunately. (like "enable retraction" or "combing mode")

Thanks for the update. Sorry no one helped you here on the forum. Some topics just get lost - if you post and no one replies within 24 hours just add a second post saying something like "hello?".

I disagree.

I don't see any difference in the temps. Did you manually add the temperatures into the gcode file? Did you slice this yourself or did someone else slice it for you? Did you adjust the temp at each level by hand? What material is this? For PLA you want the side fans at 100% (except for the first layer). Fans are your friend for better quality. That and printing slower. Also if it didn't look terrible (at least in some sections) then it wouldn't be a very good test. These types of tests usually go beyond what any printer can do. They push the limits. If the test doesn't push the limits then it needs to be made more difficult.

So... is this printer a few years old? The "hard drive" which is actually just a solid state drive which is actually a single chip, can get corrupted. The chip automatically detects bad blocks but can't repair bad data. But will never use those blocks again. So usually you can just re-install the firmware and it works great for another few years. But your's isn't booting so you need to do the "unbricking" procedure although I think Ultimaker calls it "recovery". Anyway it matters if you have an S5R1 (robot on side panel) or an S5R2 (big "U" on the side panel). Because the S5R1 has deadly voltages underneath. So in that case you would need to contact your reseller who is supposed to give you special instructions so you don't kill yourself. Anyway this talks about the procedure if you want to read ahead while waiting for your reseller to tell you where to get the recovery procedure and files:

This is fixed but I believe only in a newer model (Um3 or S5). After the UM2+ there was the UM3, S5, then S3, then UM2+C and they are due for a new printer any time one would think. There's no backward compatible "new print bed" that even comes close to fitting the UM2. As far as I know. Y For the $, the UM2 and UM2+ are quite reliable. I also had to resolder the connector on my UM2 print bed. But only once ever. I also have 3 UM2go's but those don't normally come with bed heater so I have my own custom solution for those heaters so they don't count. I have found that the UM2 is very reliable. I have seen some amazingly well worn UM2 printers that have had 5 kilometers (kilometers!) of filament pass through them that still work just fine. The teflon part also needs to be replaced often. That is consider a "consumable" and Ultimaker graciously charges very little over cost for those. It looks like you are in USA so I would contact support@fbrc8.com. They have extremely qualified staff and can tell you if there is a newer connector or whatever. Include your serial number in the email and they can see exactly what you got. They assembled all the UM printers sole in USA so they built your printer.

The way it works - there is a capacitance between that plate in the print head and the metal plate of the print bed. As the distance gets closer the capacitance increases. So when you level, starts moving the print bed up and the capacitance slowly increases. If the capacitance stops increasing then it assumes the nozzle hit the print bed. So if it is failing before it even touches the bed - it really doesn't matter if there is any core in there at all. Something is wrong with the sensor as it doesn't detect the capacitance increasing as the bed moves up. This failure is usually caused by radio interference or something is faulty. You could just disable active leveling and do it manually I suppose. Or contact your reseller and just start replacing parts. Usually if you replace a few boards it fixes the issue but I know sometimes they replace everything and it still fails.

You can upgrade using a USB flash drive. But don't do that as apparently you have the best possible version right now. More information on your error as there are 3 possibilities (read paragraphs 1,2,3)

Oh - I just looked up new england keyboard. You are just an hour away from me. 🙂