tinkergnome

Your own repository is probably not based on the original one, easy solution: make a "Fork" first. A working sequence would be: create a fork of the original repository create a new branch in your (forked) repository make all changes in your branch commit and push all your changes to GitHub create a pull request (select the new branch first) For more information choose "github fork pull request" as search terms: Here is an article with lots of explanations and comments: GitHub Standard Fork & Pull Request Workflow A shorter article with examples on the command line: Forking a GitHub Repository and Using Pull Requests And here i found a video with all steps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1I3HF4YWEw

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20748-cura-deleting-pre-modeled-supports-for-a-print/?do=findComment&comment=194799

I recommend to remove the first line (M907) as soon as possible. This command increases the motor current for the extruder motor to 1400mA - that's too much and asks for trouble... (i think the topic "overheating of stepper drivers" was already mentioned). It's only changed for the e-axis - but who knows....? The default is 1250mA (or 1200?) - i use 1100mA for years without problems. For older versions of S3D this was the standard script, but newer versions do not longer add this line to the start script (AFAIK).

Yes, but you don't need it for this purpose. You can adjust the motions settings with the standard firmware too. On an UM2 you find it in the menu: Maintenance -> Advanced -> Motion settings To rule out some things: can you show us the starting script from the S3D settings?

It looks like you have installed a firmware for the UM2 extended. As a first step i would double check the firmware version and/or re-install the correct one for your printer.

Not for gcode flavor "Ultimaker 2".... - retraction length and speed are adjusted on the printer itself in this case. This gcode flavor is not suited for other printers than the UM2(+) series.

Sounds like you should subscribe to the fbrc8 youtube channel... Calibrating the Lifting Switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1hGURM8X7g Belt Tightening--Long Belts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNLt8S9hjjc

Die Silikon-Abdeckung sollte es bei jedem Ultimaker-Händler geben, kosten ca. 1 EUR netto pro Stück. Wo hast Du den Drucker gekauft? Die Bezeichnung ist "2161 - Silicone Nozzle Cover". Ich vermute, das wäre auch die Lösung für den "HEATER_ERROR', dafür ist die Abdeckung u.a. auch wichtig.

Another common reason is a worn out PTFE coupler (it's a consumable). Have you checked it? There's a picture at the end of this topic: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion Instructions for Replacing the PTFE coupler (from 3DVerkstan)

A: What is the filament brand: colorFabb B: What is the type of filament: ngen C: What is the diameter of the filament: 2.85 D: What is the weight of a full spool: 1025g E: What is the inner diameter of the core? 52.9mm F: What is the outer diameter of the core? ~105mm G: What is the outer diameter of the whole spool? 200mm H: What is the weight of an empty spool? 260g I: Width of full spool (only when it is completely full because it can expand) 55.0mm J: Width of an empty spool (only when almost or completely empty) 55.0mm A: What is the filament brand: TwoBears B: What is the type of filament: BioFila PlaTec C: What is the diameter of the filament: 2.85mm D: What is the weight of a full spool: 790g E: What is the inner diameter of the core? 26.5mm F: What is the outer diameter of the core? ~79mm G: What is the outer diameter of the whole spool? 190mm H: What is the weight of an empty spool? ~170g (cardboard with plastic core) I: Width of full spool (only when it is completely full because it can expand) 68mm J: Width of an empty spool (only when almost or completely empty) ~66mm cardboard (the plastic core is 70mm wide) A: What is the filament brand: PolyMaker B: What is the type of filament: PolySupport C: What is the diameter of the filament: 2.85mm D: What is the weight of a full spool: -?- E: What is the inner diameter of the core? 55.0mm F: What is the outer diameter of the core? 68.0mm G: What is the outer diameter of the whole spool? 150mm H: What is the weight of an empty spool? -?- I: Width of full spool (only when it is completely full because it can expand) 68mm J: Width of an empty spool (only when almost or completely empty) 68mm

Hast Du schon die Z-Position für die beiden Teilobjekte kontrolliert? Oder ist für den "Text"-Extruder irgendetwas für die "Horizontal Expansion" für den ersten Layer eingestellt? Wie sind die beiden Teilobjekte designed? Ist der Text aus dem ersten Objekt ordentlich ausgeschnitten, oder überschneiden sich die beiden Dateien? Je nachdem was zutrifft, könntest Du die verschiedenen Optionen im Abschnitt "Mesh Fixes" durchprobieren.

Du solltest diesem Hinweis von Gerd mal nachgehen. Diese speziellen Einstellungen auf deinem linken Screenshot zu "Beschleunigung" und "Ruckfunktion" hat S3D nicht als einstellbare Parameter. Das lässt sich auch in Cura komplett abschalten - das "Häkchen" dafür scheint aber bei Dir ausgeblendet zu sein. Mach das doch mal sichtbar, schalte die beiden Häkchen aus und teste, ob es die Rillen dann auch mit Cura gibt. Falls ja, hast Du den Unterschied gefunden... Das hier sind die Einstellungen, die ich meine - die deutsche Übersetzung kann dir @zerspaner_gerd vermutlich sagen...

Vermutlich ist "Retract at Layer Change" noch aktiviert, das sollte noch ausgeschaltet werden. Ich weiß nicht, wie das auf deutsch übersetzt wurde, sollte aber mit der Suchfunktion und "Rückzug" als Begriff gefunden werden (oder so ähnllich...).

That's a question for the manufacturer of your printer / firmware. Perhaps there is an inactivity timeout set for the stepper motors? For Marlin firmware this can be changed with M85, but it really depends on your printer's firmware.

That was not me who told this to you, but it sounds like a good idea A straight first piece of filament and a chamfered tip is usually sufficient for me, no need to lift the lever. The stepper motor has to be moving of course - @Jesse Marcel it sounds like you are not using the material load / change "wizard" from the printers menu - for any special reason?

Fascinating... it looks like it is supposed to be so

The easiest way is to add a M302 command at the beginning of the gcode file or to your start gcode. If you use Cura: you can switch the GCode Flavor to "Marlin" in the machine settings. This makes the start script available for customizing.

But keep in mind that 150°C is hot... better use gloves and a pair of pliers / tweezers

The nozzle looks interesting - is it something special?

@porsche1 Because you mentioned your "kit" a few times: I hope you are aware that your "UM2+ kit" is not produced nor in any kind related to the Ultimaker company. Ultimaker has never produced or sold printers of the Ultimaker2 family as a kit. What you probably got is a cheap copy where someone (illegally) painted the Ultimaker brand name on. That does not mean that you are evil (as the buyer), but you should keep it in mind if it comes to questions like serial numbers and official support... I hope it was not soooo expensive (or you were duped somehow...)

AFAIK you don't need the aluminum plate. Just leave it away. Well, the underlying Marlin that the Ultimakers use is quite old - i doubt that there's an easy way to integrate such things. And as conny_g said - the demand is very low - the buildplate position of the UM2 is very stable and rarely needs a calibration. Are you swapping the glass plates very often or why do have a need for such a sensor? What's your requirement - only calibration of the z-position or true active / auto leveling?

Well, the sliding block at the back is just slanted a bit. You can twist it back in place. And while you are at it - take sure that the rod does not stick out on the back of the sliding block. That's all. The glorious @fbrc8-erin made a video: Reseating Sliding Blocks

I can not check it, because i'm not able to get the 3.3 BETA running... But the setting is called "Print Sequence", the search term "seq" is sufficient to show it up.

Extrusion upgrade kit promotion video How to install the Extrusion upgrade kit In the last picture it looks like the big nozzle is touching the fan shroud, if there's no gap between the neck of the nozzle and the fan shroud, the threaded part of the nozzle is probably not longer sealed against the teflon coupler.

@harley573 obviously you still use the old fan shroud. You don't used the extrusion upgrade kit for your conversion, right? And you use a nozzle type that is not intended for the Olsson block. Is this a nozzle from an Ultimaker Original? In short: are you 100% sure that the reason is not just the wrong nozzle?