Torgeir

Hi burtoogle, IMO. This is a very good idea, as all of us want an object to be printed as fast as possible, -with as less as possible quality issues, right? This is very interesting and can be a tool for increasing a quality of the printed object, decreasing overall printing time and as well reduce wear and tear of the printer (bonus -less maintenance)! Resonance’s, harmonics, upper, lower and multiple etc. you’ll name it. This is a big issue in the mechanic world. And sure, -an FDM 2D printer is part of this “world”. The good thing is that we have printers that’s built the same, -and will behave the same for a given model to print. So if we have the “resonance data base” (let’s name it so) for our printer, we can predict speeds to be used for a given model in order to avoid resonance issues in printing this model. This is sure some part of Cura -to some extent, I’ll think. Well, this is a big issue for sure, and may take some time to do.. However, your idea using known print to analyze print quality of your printer is very much in time, I’ll say. Because such print test object do not take very long and will ease finding failures in our 3D printers. A good printer will always perform as expected. If our own model is analyzed for best printing speed during printing, we will be the winners. I would love to have such a firmware.. Keep up the good work. Regards Torgeir.

Hi, Yes, at the moment the spacer seems to be squeezed so therefore the pulleye's position is offset the belt following the upper shaft. See the attached picture. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Xalara, From the picture you have here, it seems that the (plastic) spacer height is to short (seems to be squeezed). So as the slider (holding the 6 mm axe) move toward the right side, the belt is forced to the inner edge of the pulley and wearing the belt. The solution is to have a new spacer with proper length, or alternatively use a washer selected to line the belt along the upper 8 mm shaft as it is normally aligned along this shaft. Good luck. Regard Torgeir

Hi Sammysuj, Welcome in here, I just imported your model into Fusion 360, then sent the stl file to Cura 4.3.0 (the version I'm using). I could not see any big problem with your model, but could see the 3 or 4 extra layer at the bottom of the upper part of your model. As I've also use Simplify 3D, I also imported the model in here. Simplify 3D also indicate 3 or 4 layer at the upper part of your model, but it's also indicate there is a gap between the upper and the base of your model. I'll assume that those to parts is not properly joined together as one part in Fusion 360. There is also some issues in the upper "curvature" according to S3d monitor. Just my thoughts. Thanks Torgeir

Wellcome in here Bpositivedotdk, Sorry but you cannot use the old "original" feeder stepper motor (from an UM2) as a replacement for x or y axis. This is because x and y axis use a 200 step/rev stepper motor and your old feeder stepper motor has 400 step/rev. Thanks Torgeir

Hi superdave42, A great way of updating an "old" UM2!!! Very impressing, -this should be an upgrade Ultimaker could offer? Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi NBull, I've been looking more closely to the previous object you've printed and think you should check the AA core as well, -I'm pretty sure there is some temperature problem here. It's actually looking as the temperature is to high at the lo part in this object and to cold at the upper part (as shown on the picture). This is really strange, what's the size of this object? Torgeir

Hi NBull, Just wonder a little about your printing temperature 215 deg. C printing with PLA is really a bit high and even worse due to the withe color filament. The first type of filament I used was withe colored PLA. My selected print object was the 3D Benchy Boat. This one: https://www.instructables.com/id/3DBenchy-The-tool-to-calibrate-and-test-your-3D-pr/ I can tell you I've had the "inverted bumps" the staircase as well and both was due to high temperature. The first one due to overhang close to bed printing and the second due to a way to high nozzle temperature. The combination of those two made the problem worse. This latter is worse (high nozzle temp), if printing with lo speed, as the nozzle alone radiate heat directly to the object when you're printing. This may happen even when printing using tape and no heat on the bed! When printing tiny and small object I use to print with as lo temp. as 182 deg. C with PLA to avoid loosing details. Light colored object of "same basis" material tend to have less emissivity and kind of hi reflectivity versus to the darkest (black). The highest emissivity is 1, and best reflectivity is 0, when adding those two values for same material type the value = 1. According to this, light colored material has longer cool down time than the darker. For those in need to measure the temperature of the bed, using an IR spot thermometer, use a black "color" withe board pen, make a circle appr. 1/2" in diameter make this spot all black (it's very easy to remove after measurement). Measure temperature at this black spot and you'll see the difference. For checking 100 deg. C. use an aluminum kettle and an electrical oven, make same sort of black spot on the kettle and you should measure close to 100 deg.C. Sure, when the water is boiling. There's some more details for this check, but valid as long you do not live at hi altitude area. Just some tip for those interested. In general, all color will suffer by exceeding temp limit with additional radiation heat, but lighter color will suffer more. So, if you think you need to go that hi with nozzle temp setting, there might be some problem with the nozzle unit you're using. Thanks Good luck Torgeir

Glad to hear that your printer is up and working. Happy printing.. Cheers Torgeir.

Hi 3D-Ya, I know this question is about what is error 13 reported from Cura. After some lurking around, I found this to be an old issue with Cura. The Error 13 seems to mean; Access denied. As there is a hi number of Cura versions, it will helps a lot if we new the version you are using and how this happen. What do you do when this error occur? Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, The 0 deg. Celsius and an ice mixture with clean water have been a preferred method in laboratories as long as I can remember.. This is the recommended reference in the aircraft standard practice manual as well, used for certain temperature calibration checks. For the boiling water there might be some adjustment, -that I forgot to mention.. Cause, this is valid only at sea level when at "standard atmosphere pressure" (1013.25 hPa (previously named millibar)). Here is a calculator to be used for finding the air pressure (for those living at some (high) altitude. This calculator is using standard pressure at sea level as reference, so a barometer showing absolute pressure is nice for this setup.. https://www.omnicalculator.com/chemistry/boiling-point-altitude I'm living about 45 m above sea level, so it is not that far off.. By the way, almost all smartphones today have a pressure sensor giving the pressure in hPa, so using this **) calculator will give you a correct value for the boiling point. Just input a value that's according to the pressure, then see the correct boiling point (in deg. Celsius) for water at this pressure. This temperature should match the reading at the nozzle temperature on your UMX using PT100 temp. sensor. Note: If the pressure is very hi, you might need to use negative altitude eg. -100 m. The Fluke 8060A is a precision instrument, crocodile clamp that's gold plated I've used in this "experiment", just to see this is the way to check a PT100 for correct reading, vs. the specs. So the easy way to do this is to connect the PT100 to the printer so you can see the temperature directly, the temperature should be only one digit of if any, when using PT100A version. Here is the PT100 specs, temperature vs. resistance: https://www.omega.com/temperature/Z/pdf/z252-254.pdf Here is some pictures of the setup: This picture show the resistance in the measuring wiring is: 0.15 Ohm. By pressing the REL button, the instrument reading point is at the point the two small clip is attached. This take away the error instrument wires can make. Here is the reading when the PT100A probe is immersed in the ice bath (using a food thermos). Reading is within specs.. Here is the PT100A sensor inside a water boiler, sure boiling. The reading here is a little say lo, perfect would be 138.51 Ohm according to the spec sheet for the PT100A. The fluke is reading 138.44 Ohm, a little less than expected but not far.. However, the pressure according to my S9+, is: 1006.33 hPa so this need some correction. If you use the app, altitude vs. boiling point you find the correct boiling temp for this actual pressure. We find the altitude that match closest to 1006.33 is 57m, then we read 1006.4 hPa. As we cannot set 1/00 hPa, this is the closest we can do. So this give us a a boiling temperature at 99.82 deg. Celsius. If we use the value from the instrument, 138.44 Ohm and use the linearity between 99 and 100 deg.C, our temperature is 99.79 deg.C. Well, this altitude difference was not that much, but at a few thousand will for sure give a clear relation ref. pressure/water boiling temperature. The measured difference here is only 0.03 deg. Celsius, and only 0.21 deg. less than 100 deg.C. Thanks Torgeir

Hi NBull, I'm not sure if this help, but I've seen this kind of problem when printing with overhang close to the bed. After switching off the bed and using glue with PLA, this phenomena disappear.. Also had some more problem with white color filament. I've also learned that the light colored filament always radiate less heath when cooling down, compared to the darker colors. So a hot print bed in this combination is "kind of a" no no.. May be if we're using a raft or a skirt can reduce this problem, but I have not tried this way. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi vwguy16, Just some more info; the two black wires is power for the heater, the two gray wires is going to the PT100 temperature sensor. Both, the heater and the temp sensor is not polarity sensitive, as they are floating from ground. When looking into the printer, the two connecting points to the left is for the heat bed and the two to the right is for the PT100 temperature sensor. Good luck Torgeir-

Hi vitalsparks, Have been reading your interesting post and did the same test as you did when reading the temperature inside the nozzle using chromel alumel thermo couple. I did this because it was convenient, as I did a check of the hot end after some 2o hour printing with nylon first time at 256 deg. Celsius. Here is the result from my setup: Set Temp. UM2 Nozzle Temp. UM2 Measured temp ext. instrument. deg. C deg. C deg. C 30 30 31 50 49 50 100 100 100 150 150 151 200 200 200 230 231 231 250 249 249 255 254 254 I was kind of surprised after this good/excellent result, however, this is actually confirming my experience with those sensors. The Platinum PT100 is used "mostly" in the aviation as an absolute temperature reference among a few others. Here is some pictures of my setup and most important values: The hot end with the thermo couple inserted into nozzle tip. The adjusted temp is 100 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 200 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 230 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 250 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 255 deg. Celsius. Why this difference? When I built my printer, I was using copper paste in between the heat shell and the heat block. I've also used copper paste between the PT100 shell and the heat block. As there's a little space (for expansion) between the mounting hole's for the heat shell and the PT100 temp sensor it is a good practice to fill up the space (clearance) with copper pasta. Copper pasta have excellent properties for this use as: Good thermal conductivity (air pocket is a very poor heat conductor). Good electrical conductivity Corrosion resistance Copper paste also prevent corrosion and burning of parts, but you still will need to preheat the nozzle for change or removing hot end from the attachment frame. IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE COPPER PASTE FOR THE FIRST TIME, DO NOT INSTALL THE TWO COOLING FAN SHROUD. WHEN YOU HEAT UP THE NOZZLE FIRST TIME AFTER THIS TREATMENT, THERE WILL BE A LITTLE SMOKE (SO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE VENTED AREA), ALSO THERE MIGHT BE A LITTLE DRIPPING OF EXCESS COPPER PASTE, SO HAVE A COTTON RAG OR PAPER TOWEL FOR KITCHEN USE, WHENREADY TO CLEAN OF THIS EXCESS SPILL. Metal device: Relative Conduction: Copper 394 Silver 418 Aluminum 238 (The cold junction frame attachment and cooling frame) Stainless steel 13 (The nut holding the heat block and housing the TFM coupler). PS. I'm also using copper paste in between the nozzle tread and in between the steel nut tread mounted onto top of heat block. NB; Be careful here to avoid copper paste into the filament area/side.. Note Well.. Just for the record; I'm still using a 24 W heat element, even printing with nylon at 256 deg. C! This is just because my setup is far more efficient, due to much better heat conduction! (To check the calibration of the PT100 sensor, put the sensor into clean water with ice cubes that's need to be stirred to keep this mixture at zero deg. Celsius. Your Ultimaker nozzle temp should read 0 deg, C. (A precision resistor with 100 Ohm should read zero deg. C as well. 0.5% tolerance or better is needed). Do the same with boiling water, will show 100 deg. C here.. ) Maybe this little modification might be something for you, unless you have something else in error. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi folks and yellowshark, I just started printing with nylon four weeks ago.. And the one I selected was Taulman "Bridge" Nylon. But, there is one other brand of nylon from Taulman, the only one food approved from Taulman: Nylon 680! The two other in here is not FDA approved. However, if you want to use 680, you have to testify that your printer is compatible to this requirement (FDA)!!! In addition.. Is not this one easy (??) The printing temperature can go to close 260 deg. C? I'll say yes, most of the problem (bacterias) should be gone (the one we knows about) and cannot survive a temperature of 250 deg Celsius.. This is what I'm thinking, but you've always have to make sure, you know.. Nylon is a fantastic kind of plastic, if you need something super strong, this is the material for you... As far as I could see, the Taulman Bridge is very close to the Ultimaker type of nylon, in specification wise, however my UM2 "kind" printed nylon very well.. In spit of giving some surprise on the way, -but this is another story.. 🙂 If you need FDA approved nylon; print with 100% infill, and make sure to have a good fusion temperature set. Look at the product from Taulman, -a great product with "honest" specification. Print with the right fusion temperature, I used 256 deg. C. at the nozzle. No fan, at all -and bed at 75 deg C. The result of this was OUTSTANDING.. So, in my opinion, Taulman is the product to investigate -closely. And, an Ultimaker UM2 CAN print Nylon if you want to, and do prepare it to do.. Conclusion, Tauluman Nylon 680 filament is the way to go if you'll need "kind of" or a FDA approach. Here's a link to Tauluman 680: http://taulman3d.com/nylon-680-spec.html Thanks Torgeir

Hi vwguy16, Welcome in here. As far as I'll know, the heated build plate used in UM2+ is the same as used in the UM2 and you find it here: https://3dgbire.com/collections/spare-parts/products/ultimaker-heated-bed The brownish color around the stepper driver IC's is kind of normal for this printer. You can reduce the heath build up by using an external fan directed toward the vent opening. I've installed two small fan outside the metal shield covering blowing into the main circuit board -and my PCB have no sign of overheat, still looks as brand new.. Also worth to know is that the little PT100 sensor on the heat bed somtimes fail, and can be changed. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi RancherBob, Welcome in here, most people observe that some of the filament over time "leak" into the threads and somehow lock the nozzle likes thread lock is used -that's impossible to open in the normal way.. So, what we do is to preheat the nozzle (from maintenance menu - select advanced - then nozzle heating) up to the printing temperature of the last used filament. Now, it's very easy to replace the nozzle.. Also, I'm using copper pasta in between the threads - nozzle to heat body (only threads her - no spill inside body!!!), this improve the thermal conductivity between the nozzle and the heat block very much,-and also works a thread "seal" and anti size compound! Thanks Torgeir.

Ok Folks, Here's the question from 3D-Ya in Japan, converted to English: 3D-Ya Member 0 3 posts Posted 13 hours ago · What is Cura's Error Message No. 13? Error message No. 13 has appeared and I can not save it. ---- I'm willing to translate it to Japanese, -sure, using Google.. Regards Torgeir.

Hi fluxline, You can go this site, where you find how to repair the thermocouple setup in an UMO.. https://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB Thanks Torgeir.

Hi fredlaranja, Have a look at this post. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi @tiaguera79, The capacitor C74 is a 220 nF SMD capacitor as this one: https://www.conrad.com/ce/en/Search.html?search=smd+220+nF&filterContent=1+pc(s)&filterNominal+voltage=25+V Thanks Regard Torgeir.

Hi @gr5, For sure I know @tinkergnome's firmware, IMO., the best firmware made for UM2 -to experimenters! But the fact is that there is other UM2 users, with limited knowledge in this matter, their interest is to print 3D objects.. When this one is left behind, having the old firmware while it is still as good "hardware wise" as the UM2+! They will be looking into Ultimakers web site and want to use this software.. -This is what I'm talking about! People using the printer this way is -kind of "out in the cold"! You see, as long as UM2+ is living, UM2 should be in the same boat, so to say.. UM2+ is just a small modification of UM2!!! 333 post, -really, hopefully I made some valuable ones.. Just for "the record", I started "hand assembling" in 1974, because I could not afford an assembler, -as it was way too expensive.. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi @Spaziofranco, To much to do at the moment, but this one is easy.. You'll find all the info in this tread. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi @chuck-yanke, Thanks, here is details in pictures. Try a local model aircraft shop, they should have carbon rods approx (1 mm X 1000 mm) thats give you some extras for attachment. Good luck. Thanks regards Torgeir.

Hi Abrasive, Thanks.. This material really can change due to our treatment of it.. Torgeir.