Torgeir

Hi Gambit, Did you check that the "other directory", the one provided by @ghostkeeper, the directory under "roaming" containing another cura directory? This one: C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (?) Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi Gambit, I'll think you need to uninstall the the 3.4.1 version of cura, make sure this "erased" directory is clean, then reinstall cura version 3.4.1 Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Here is the path to cura config files in the c disk. C://users/"your name"/AppData/Local/ Roll down until you see cura. Copy all those files and delete those files in this directory. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi Folks, Excuse my ignorance here, never seen this eminent firmware before. But one thing I’ve notices is that this firmware has the possibility to inverse the direction of all axes including the two extruders. Why not try to inverse the X-axes in the menu? I’ll ask this question as both of you have the head moving the right side instead to the left where the switch is located. Just my two p. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi Folks, What a great analysis done here, lots of job with all this.. @gr5 I've been following this for sometime as this is kind of strange.. Just a note on your last print in here, the print you stopped before finish of first layer. At first I thought the beginning of «filling in» was OK. However, when copying this picture and zoomed into it for more details in here, I can see that the squished first line has a leak track, meaning the feed rate is to high. At the end of this, the nozzle do not leak any more -it looks flat as it should be. Maybe the bed is just a bit closer to the nozzle and really close the outflow. At this point the filament will sure be grind-ed, and this part of the filament will slowly move into the bowden tube. You now start to see the blobs, -that’s escape from the nozzle and you see how squeezed the last part is before a total lack of extrusion. Also those two blobs seems to be burnt, but may be a visual error.. When the prints go on, more and more of the grind-ed filament is feed into the bowden tube and this is become a serious problem for the rest of the print as the feeder have to work against the additional forces due to friction. So this is why your print suffer for under extrusion, as the grinding will continue.. IMO. The look of your nozzle also tell a story.. When everything is right, the nozzle looks great.. You should probably lower the first layer feed rate and also reduce the feeder 1 stepper current as this will prevent high torque when pressure is too high at the feeder side. This is one of Gunnar's suggestion in his long check list. Below you can see two areas magnified from your picture. Anyway, good luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Great mayo77, Keep up the good work. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi Kmanstudios, This is what I tried to explain/said here for a looong, long time, but to "dead" ears, -I'll think.. I'm running the track line inside the loop and use less retraction due to less friction. I'd love to show some numbers about this, -but loose interest., ?... I can print things at quite a good quality due to those small modifications I've done to my printer. And it is still a plain "UM2" configuration printer, using the original setup -but have some small adjustment to behave proper.. What you show here should be corrected long time ago. There is a few of comments about this issue in this forum. Keeps up the good works. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi There, You all are talking about the new Ultimaker S5 made in U.S.A. ? My telephone is a S5, maybe I could have another S5.. Hmm.. Take care. Thanks. Torgeir.

Sorry, but forgot to mention that you have to swap two wires on the feeder stepper motor, as it have to turn in the other direction. Either, pin 1 and two, or three and four on the stepper connector. But this is very easy to do.. The thing is; your printer will be (act) as a standard UM2 printer, so no firmware change! If you can improve your 3D printer with software, this is good, -but if you can improve your printer by hardware -it is even better! Thanks. Torgeir.

Well, -where I been working (in the aviation) we used 242 on those screws -3 mm (and the equal inch standards sizes) all the time.. I'd never had any problem removing those screws.. But, -if you fill all the coil with this stuff, there might be a problem. - - - So; we do not glue them with Locktite, we just lock them with a small droplet.. The black set screw is a high torque set screw, and the knurled wheel have just a few coils, -so here it is wise to use 242! Just my two and half pence.. Take care and good luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi fergazz, Thanks for the flowers.. Yes, I did many test and found that I do not need the Bondtech feeder. I'd actually made a test using double knurled and double hubbed feeder wheel. I found that the friction increased (of course) but the stepper had to be geared to a higher ratio as well in order to handle this extra "drag". It actually worked well, but I did not want to change the firmware from the original UM2! So I installed a 200 step/ 360 deg. and made a belt gear using same belt as the short UM2 for X/Y axes. The pull eye's I'm using for the gear is (16 and 32) tooth type 2GT. By doing this, no firmware change and your feeder now have close to double torque. This feeder unit make very little noise, just the humming from the stepper motor. Meduzas feeder unit is having the same gear ratio as mine, just go for it, but one very important thing to do is to mirror the original feeder housing. So to the question, why turn around the feeder? Ok. then, when we buy new filament from a shop, do you think we will have the one just arrived from the producer? If they have this filament in the shop, you'll have the oldest one, for sure. Meaning there will be some memorized curved filament for you to use, and even fresh filament have some effect -like this. Try this; mark the inner loop side of your filament (in same length as your bowden tube) with black (permanent) marker. Let it dry and manually feed this marked filament into the bowden tube. See that the filament line up its curved path into same curve as the bowden tube has, yes the black line will stay mostly on the inner (lo) side of the bowden tube. The black line represent where my knurled track line is located on the filament! On Ultimaker setup, the trackline is on the top and this make "some" added friction. Using hubbed drive wheel add much more friction in such setup.. I've always wonder why Ultimaker choose the outer side of filament to put the drive (knurled) wheel, but no one ever answer this question.. :( So I'll think Ultimaker always have a super fresh filament that's behave different, than "some aged filament" we the users got from shops around wherever we are. My printer can push approx 5.2 Kp input to bowben tube.. Then the bowden lock often just come off.. If you need this much force to drive the filament, there is some serious problem with your 3D printer. If you like to see my setup, I can share this -but need to be home in order to send pictures files etc.. Anyway, keep up your good work. Thanks. Torgeir.

Well, 242 is the blue one for screws that can be reopened. Some other Locktite product can really fasten to much.. Anyway, good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

I'll say. right you are... Take care. Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi @smartavionics, Thanks for this information and the link to the fix. Regards Torgeir.

Hi Frank5300, When I looked at your sliced vase using the monitor in Cura 3.2.1., I can see small hole (triangles) rotating around your vase. If I used S3D, your vase look really nice.. Here is a picture: I downloaded the .stl file for this vase and sliced using cura 3.2.1 and there was no issues, it looked very nice. Maybe there is some setting in cura that is creating this problem. Anyway, good luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Kirbs, Firmware is just the "program" installed into the Arduino board that is controlling your printer. You just switch on your printer and select from the menu "Maintenance" then go to "advanced menu", then roll down to speed setting and enter. If you roll down in here you will find speed setting and the various stepper motor current setting (X,Y,Z & EXR1 (+EXTR2 not in use)). Here the current can be adjusted, but do not rice this setting if it is correct -as to high setting here can ruin your main electronic board. Often when stepper motors fail, it is due to high friction internally when the motor is at working temperature, rising current will create more heat in the motor and also increase the temperature on your controlling PCB (the expensive main electronic board). Thanks. Torgeir

Hi Kirbs, Just another possible issue here, did you check the stepper motor current? To lo current can create missed step if there is some friction involved. Have a look at the firmware setting on the printer setup menu, think it is under speed settings.. If my memory serve well, the current setting should be around ~1250 mA for those kind stepper motors. Just a thought. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi mayo77, Good info and well done. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi mayo77, Yes you're right. This is belt offset sound. It may happen on each of the 4 pulleys for the X axis or each of the four pulleys for the Y axes! Here it will sound loudly when the slider holding the 6 mm shaft is approaching an offset pulley. If the shaft is in the middle it does not make much noise, but will when coming close to the pulley. Since your printer have this sound all the time, it may come from an offset of the short belts, either X or Y. Noise from here will be present all the time, if it is offset. Belts (all six) used for a long time will wear and make noise due to the wear (it climb on the teeth), maybe a belt change is to be performed? The pulley teeth will be black due to rubber remains in here. Just some suggestions. It all depend of the total printing hour for your printer, however I'm not that heavy user, so I do not have any max. hour for belt replacement. But overdue belts will make noise! Thanks. Good luck. Torgeir.

Hi russlang, I'll think this sound is from both short belts, but mostly from the R/H stepper (the X axis). It should be possible to hear this sound when moving the extruder manually from right left (X axis), or in and out (Y axis), in order to confirm that this sound is due to a climbing belt. The belt will worn on one side and sometimes you find black rubber remains under the actual pulley that the belt is climbing on. PS. When cleaning inside the printer, it is a good practice to check the four corners for rubber particle's build up.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Andy, This is very good improvement.. Torgeir.

Hi hoegge, You'll need to use the "windows mouse standard"; push wheel button, then you can move the whole model up and down to fit your view. Thanks Torgeir

Hi nallath, As always, you are right. Just checked my computer about yesterday and just found out that there was a silent upgrade running in background creating this influence on Cura. Very sorry for this! Startup time for Cura 3.1 is only 23 second. Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Just checked my computer about yesterday (18 of January) and just found out that there was a silent upgrade running in background creating this influence on Cura. So all of the below writing is not a correct observation. Apology everyone. Torgeir ------------------------------------- Hi Folks, Today I learned something new about Cura. If you last had a "big" model sliced with Cura, do not quit Cura after such a model, just save your big model, the open a simple gcode model and now you can quit. Re opening after opening a small model will open Cura kind of "fast". There is something related to the size of the last model that is delaying the startup of Cura. If you have several versions of Cura you're using, -say from 2.5 Beta and up, all of them is using same start "script" and is affected this way. Actually, the older versions may hang all the time, but after this "treatment" with latest Cura version, they all come to live again.. Well, maybe not a big thing but help me some.. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Folks, This is a very detailed print with some issues. I'll guess this is the engine part of some "future space station"? I've also had a look into this model in Cura 3.1 and in S3D 4.0.1 and here is the pictures: Here we see the retractions that is visible very much in Cura. This is S3D with same part of the model, but a little wider. The colors represent print speed at details. Again, S3D, this picture show a "cutout" of the print at an interesting place, (color) of the speed information during printing at this layer. Well, just wondering if there is some head (extruder) play and a hit so the Y stepper loose steps? Or could the X/Y stepper current happen to be set to too lo current? You could say this is one of the reason why I alternate between those two slicers.. Anyway, just a thought. Thanks. Torgeir.