gr5

You can reverse the inputs. You asked on page 4 of 4. Go back to page 3 and read Smithy's post about how to reverse them.

yes, cura says it is not watertight but it seems to slice just fine. I agree - no red spots. I zoomed in all around particularly the wall and it all looks fine and slices just fine for me. So I wouldn't worry about it. It's possible your normals are wrong/backwards but it slices fine so I'd ignore that. I tried "fix normals" but it didn't make the "watertight" test any happier. If the layer view looks fine I would just ignore the error message.

That's normal. It's playing the layer you have selected on the right. In the same video you posted there is a vertical scroll bar. You can use your mouse to grab the top ball and drag it downwards to see other layers. You can also drag the bottom ball but I recommend sticking to the top ball. Once you've clicked the top ball you can also use ctrl+up arrow and down arrow to scroll through the layers. The play button only plays one layer - the current layer selected.

Oh - I just remembered that you said you are doing USB printing. That is fine if you are printing from a rasberry pi using octoprint but that is NOT recommended (and not supported by Ultimaker) if you do it from Cura. Yes it's a feature in Cura but not meant to be used on UM2 series printers. If you do USB printing it might be that you have to go the "gcode flavor Marlin" route. I'm not sure. I thought you could do it with either flavor but perhaps not. Perhaps the "Ulitmaker 2" flavor doesn't work through USB.

So there are 2 ways to print gcode on the UM2. The standard way is to use "gcode flavor ultimaker 2" (I'll explain in a moment) which lets the printer do the homing, purging, warmup, etc. The second way is to use "gcode flavor Marlin" which works just fine and has the start/end gcode you mentioned (and may have been deleted somehow). To set these up, it has nothing to do with your settings profiles. It has to do with your machine profile. Make sure you are in PREPARE mode (there are 3 modes across the top of cura - PREPARE PREVIEW MONITOR). Then just under that bar on the left choose your printer type "ultimaker 2+". Then click the um2 drop down again and choose the button "Manage Printers". Then choose the button on the right "Machine Settings". Double check at the top of the dialog that it says your machine is "ultimaker 2 +" still. Now note that you can change the gcode flavor to Marlin or "Ultimaker 2". I recommend "Ultimaker 2" which has no start/end gcode because the UM2+ firmware takes care of it. There is a comment in the gcode header to clue in to the UM2 to do it's own homing etcetera. Or you can choose "Marlin" but then you have to examine and possibly edit the start/end gcode commands yourself which do the heating up, the homing, the purge and so on.

So do you have a prusa printer? Mk3S sounds like a Prusa. I'm pretty sure Prusa has forums just like this Ultimaker forum and those people know a LOT more about Prusa printers than the people here on this forum. So you might find one person here who can answer your question but you can probably find 2000 people on the other forum who can answer your question. Good luck either way! Another way to put it - you might get an answer here within a few days but on the other forum you would likely get an answer within a few minutes.

I don't think so. @Dim3nsioneer might know. Usually it doesn't matter. It's not like a car where you change the oil every X miles. These are tough machines.

Does the lift switch work? On the right side of the head pull that little lever towards and push it away and the core should go up and down. Does it? If it does then you probably have to calibrate the lift switch. There is an extremely simple procedure to do this in the menu system on the S5[edit: yes on the UM3 as well]. Under maintenance maybe.

The temperatures look fine. It cools the breakaway when not being printed to 215 and 230 when printing it. I don't know what you can do about the burnt breakaway falling into your print. I don't use "pla breakaway" and have no familiarity with it. I use other products (PVA or PLA as a breakaway for petg). 1) Anyway, I noticed some other strange things. Your part is basically a box with shelf-gaps inside. Those gaps are printed as a single layer of breakaway. But there is no way to remove that breakaway as it is sealed in the box which has sides, top, and bottom. Do you need those gaps in there? For some kind of airflow? Waterflow? Or can those gaps be removed? 2) I don't think you need any support in your entire part except for this one red section as shown. You can get rid of all the other support by either: 2a) changing the support angle overhang until the side supports go away and also chooseing "support touching buildplate" 2b) Use support blockers everywhere except the red seciton shown below.

The only way I know to do it is to insert every core. In the S5 menu it's easy to get the statistics (meters of filament printer, highest temperature seen, hours of printing time, hours hot) for each core. Then you just add up the numbers. The problem is if you threw a core away or if you move cores among printers. The S5 printer lasts forever as far as I can tell at this point. You have to change the rubber belts after about 2 to 5 kilometers of filament printed. You should also change the bowden tube at a similar interval but you don't have to (friction increases slowly over the years). You really need to be printing 40 hours per week for a year or two before you need to do much maintenance.

Es ist mit ziemlicher Sicherheit das Netzteil. Dies ist ein häufiges Problem. Ich würde mir eine neue besorgen. Die Teilenummer: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B GS gegen GST GS kann mehr Leistung abgeben, obwohl die Spezifikationen identisch sind, also wäre es besser, wenn Sie einen neuen finden könnten. Kaufen Sie keinen gebrauchten. Eine Alternative, wenn Sie kein Geld ausgeben möchten, ist die Installation der Tinkergnome-Version von Marlin. Diese Version verfügt über eine Funktion, mit der Sie die Leistung zum beheizten Bett reduzieren können. Genannt "power budget". [translated with google translate]

Why don't you post your project file. Do "file" "save project as" and then post that file. Then I can look at it. I'm particularly curious about the support material cool temperature - the inactive nozzle is supposed to cool a bit so you don't leak as much but also so you don't caramelize it like might be happening here.

I've seen something similar with other filaments. For me it's usually that the filament sticks to the outside of the nozzle for a while and caramelizes slowly over maybe 10 minutes and then falls into the print. It's not usually a problem for support material, right?

There is an issue that was fixed about a year ago and it actually makes sense to have started recently (maybe). What version is your S5 firmware?

It's a Cura feature. It's called a "support tower". Enter "tower" in the settings search window just above your settings and you can see all the pertinent settings including the ability to disable it. It increases the quality of your print significantly at times. when one nozzle is printing, the inactive nozzle doesn't cool fast enough and a bit of filament leaks out. when you start printing with that nozzle again, without the wipe tower, you get that tiny sausage attached to your print and also it then underextrudes for the first cm or so. You can certainly disable it.

I googled this"pololu compatible ultimaker original" and the first link seems relevant and helpful:

This is a surprisingly common problem and trivial to fix. Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center". Also check the dimensions of your bed - for example, if it says your bed is 100mm wide but it is actually 200mm wide then it will be printing on the left half of your print bed.

Rather than pay $500 you could just get a new main board. Which is a similar price I think. Anyway... Did you update to firmware 7.X? There seems to be an issue with that. If not then it's probably the "hard drive" on the S3 (actually it's flash memory built into the linux computer). Usually you get a few bad blocks but the flash should know to use a new location next time so you can just do the "unbricking" procedure which reinstalls everything. more info here: Also I wrote a TON about this here: gr5.org/unbricking/ One (older) recovery image for S3 (213482 = S3): https://software.ultimaker.com/releases/firmware/213482/stable/5.3.10.20200107/um-restore-5.3.10.20200107.img

It might be helpful to publish the log file (cura.log). It can be found here: %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows) $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux)

I just checked and you can get several types of xstrand including pp or pa6. I recommend pa6 (which is nylon). I have used the gf30-pa6. Look most modern CF and GF filaments all work great. xstrand has not cornered the market. It's just one that I tried and it was excellent.

xstrand is on the marketplace - it's GF (not CF) but it's the best filled filament I've ever tested (only tested about 5 and haven't tested any in the last 3 years or so). The profiles are overrated in my opinion. If you are printing PA6 or Nylon filled filaments (CF or GF), then just use any generic nylon profile. But definitely use the CC 0.6 core.

Agreed!

The active leveling is sensitive to electronic noise but leveling will also fail if there any non-melted filament on the tip of the nozzle. So the printer heats both cores and the bed every time but then cuts power to all 3 while leveling is happening. You can definitely disable the active leveling. I did it on my S5 for a month. The experience was pretty good. The feature is not build into the screen but here is a tool to do it (which is what I used on my S5 - worked well). Note that the first time you do manual leveling you should probably reboot right after as I forget now but it did something strange on the first print after the first leveling after switching to manual.

That's a polypropylene filament. aka pp. That's probably the hardest thing to get to stick to glass. UM recommends adhesion sheets so you could try that. They sell them. I've tried PP on adhesion sheets and it works just fine but I tore the sheets every time so it's a LOT of work putting them down, removing bubbles, then removing the sheets after removing the print (if they tear) (or print on a different area). Alternatively you could try "magigoo pro pp". My 3d printing buddies swear by magigoo. I've never tried it but I hear good things. I try to avoid PP wherever possible since there are so many alternative filaments with CF or GF (nylon is my favorite but there are petg/cpe alternatives, polycarbonate, abs (yuck - stinky)). PP does have a few nice properties. I think in particular it's more chemical resistant.