Dim3nsioneer

Du kannst eine UM2+ Düse verwenden wenn Du einen eigenen Fanduct druckst der weniger weit runter reicht. Stelle einfach sicher dass Düse und Messinggewinde von oben sich sicher innerhalb des Alublocks berühren.

You cannot really hide it with a radial symmetrical part. You may want to try to print it at a lower temperature. This will lead to less leakage during the time it stands still while changing the z height.

This should answer the question: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/44677-maximum-build-volume-ultimaker-2-plus-ultimaker-3

you get the work

two more things should be mentioned: there was a celebration cake at tct for the 1000000 users and Siert Wijnia dedicated the first piece to @daid, the inventor of the original Cura.

If you have your UM3 connected to the internet and fw 3.7.7 running, it will tell you when a new stable release is available. If you don't have it connected, you will probably have to watch the um blog. There have been no regular updates but the next one might not be that far (at least I hope so).

That's the best of all solutions (Please convince the rest of your Great country to do the same.) Meanwhile you might find a plugin for Cura 2.7 interesting which you can install by the new plugin browser; it's called "Barbarian plugin" (if you want to blame someone for the name, @nallath might be a good address ).

Use the UM adhesion sheets as recommended. It might also work with a Buildtak or a PEI plate. For more information about printing with Ultimaker PP please see https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49778-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pp.

I have a (about 5-6 year old) PC where Cura 2.7 is eating up (almost) the whole memory and makes Win10 swaping... so maybe having a PC less than 3 years old for Cura is not a bad idea. Didn't had that issue with Cura 2.6.1.

What does that writing on the component say? Probably a part no. one can find on the web?

These are a few very good remarks! Having more than "just" one Beta release before release would certainly do something good to the code. On the other hand it would probably lead to a longer interval for stable releases. It would be interesting to read some more thoughts about this here.

While I find words like "amateurs" a bit harsh I like the idea of detaching bugfixes from new features. So a logical next step would be Cura 2.7.1.

Haha, I guess we would not realize if you would just show us a Simplify3D sliced object... Looking forward to that piece of code!

It does not if you select the online documentation menu item in Cura. At least not for me.

This is a pretty safe assumption. UM is working on it. @lepaul: Youmagine is not maintained by the same people as the UM website afaik.

Why so pessimistic? The Mark2 is a really nice add-on. You might want to give it a try.

@ultiarjan made a machine which is part UM2GO, part UM3: http://www.ultimaker.com/en/community/24039-using-the-ultimaker3-core-on-an-ultimaker2?page=2#reply-171478

This one is a very good example for the unnecessary travel moves in Cura. IMHO there should be one travel move going to that circle and one leaving it again. Similar travel movements should occur for that infill in the front left corner. Second best way to do it would be to finish the inner walls except the innermost, then travel again to that spot, finish the innermost wall and right after it the infill. Best way to do it would be to print this area as a part of the second innermost wall line, printing something like as spiral for the remaining inner wall lines with the infill following before returning to the other inner wall path. Only very small travel moves would be necessary.

If Cura would not be so obsessed to finish all lines of the same type (outer wall, inner wall, infill, in uninterrupted sequence, the major part of those excessive travel moves could be avoided. Advantages would be an improved printing time and a lower risk for a travel move to detach already printed lines. And of course one would get of the ugly combing lines which can atm only be done by adding retraction and z hop which needs additional time.

Yes, a humidity warning sticker on the PVA spool would not be wrong. But I think it's quite logical that a material which dissolves in water is sensitive to humidity. UM PVA should now come with an additional resealable bag, at least the last 350g spool I opened had one inside the packaging. However that bag is not included in the printer package. Speaking of the 350g PVA spool: that one exists exactly because of that sensitivity to humidity. People who don't print a lot are better off with the 350g than with the 750g. If an UM3 is used professionally and running for a large amount of time it should be possible to use 750g in a quite short time. Anyway, if PVA is not printed, take it off the printer and store it in a sealed bag with dessiccant. You can use PVA also with ABS and PC but more or less it's safe to say that ABS or PC stick fairly on PVA but not the other way round. It depends a lot on the geometry.

If you want an original Ulticontroller, you might want to get in contact with an Ultimaker reseller as the parts are still available (just not as a kit anymore). But @neotko's advice is probably the cheaper way.

Ich habe mir ein Stück Karton zugeschnitten, das genau die Grösse des Heizbetts hat. Das lege ich z.B. für PC auf die 4 Clips und verhindere damit einen Grossteil der Strahlungsverluste. Geht deutlich schneller als ohne. Für die eingeschränkte Heizleistung gibt es verschiedene Gründe. Der wichtigste ist sicher die Leistung des 220W-Netzteils. Dieses ist das grösste mit dem verwendeten Stecker, stärkere Netzteile haben einen anderen Stecker. Diese Steckeränderung hatte stattgefunden als der Ultimaker 2 damals kurz vor der Vollendung stand. Damit war die maximale Leistung besiegelt. Dass Ultimaker so lange wie möglich beim gleichen Netzteil für möglichst viele Geräte bleibt finde ich nachvollziehbar. Daher auch die Beschränkung beim UM3. Andere Gründen dürften auch normentechnischer Natur sein. Eine 230V Heizung geht natürlich viel schneller, ist aber auch elektrisch anders zu behandeln als einen Gleichspannungsquelle.

What upgrade kit do you mean? The dual extrusion upgrade kit for the Ultimaker Original? Don't use that one on an UMO+! The temperature sensor is different (thermocouple vs. pt100 on an UMO+) and if you use that heater cartridge which is made for 12V iirc with 24V you will heat with four times the power, i.e. with 160W (good way to burn down your house).

I guess you will have to wait until the Cura devs introduce the functionality the TweakAtZ plugin had, i.e. to change a certain setting like the fan speed at a certain height. This should imo be part of the Curaengine, including the possibility to change the layer height at a certain height as e.g. Simplify3D allows for.

If it would be an old UM spool without NFC tag one would not see the NFC tag id with the nfc reader test.