Dim3nsioneer

I cannot fully agree. Cura 2.5 was significantly faster than 2.4. And 2.7 looks to me to be a bit faster with switching profiles than 2.6. However, a faster startup would indeed be nice if possible.

Or you produce your own json file for the 0.15mm (for quite advanced Cura users).

Nope it would not as he could forsee the future and understand why it takes that long... I can't say more than "there is a reason..." (and it's a good reason imo)

We all would like to happen it faster but some (good!) things just need their time...

I can't give you an answer on your question but you may find one Swiss reseller by following the links in my forum profile

make sure the connector is fully plugged in. it has a safety function against falling out. you may have to pull back the cover of the connector to be able to fully plug it in.

Which materials did you use? PLA and Nylon?

What about https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Extended? You should have step files for each part there.

Go to System->Maintenance->Diagnostics menu in the printer. There are two NFC checks. The first one checks if the NFC hardware is present, the second one reads the tags of the spools (id + material type per printcore).

That's standard procedure, especially for the resellers which do not have some very specific Ultimaker knowledge themselves.

As time goes by things change. Illuminarti is hardly ever on the forum these days as he is busy with the Ultimaker production in America. However, his wife, @fbrc8-erin is also on the forum and helps wherever she can. Maybe she or also @sandervg can check and make that assembly manual available on the Github source? Anyway, for the assembly of the belts/sliding blocks, the assembly is the same as for the UM2 with just shorter belts.

Contact your reseller or distributor. He has the possibility to sell you spare parts which are not listed by Ultimaker under the product menu. Or you are a bit patient and print your UM3 head by yourself when the hardware source is published.

Sounds to me something was not as it should be in the startup sequence in S3D. No hardware error could make the printer skipping the heating of the bed, except a faulty temperature sensor (which shows about 70 deg too much?). But such a faulty temperature sensor would trigger an temp sensor error in the firmware for sure. So nothing to worry about the hardware.

If the problem persists, please contact your reseller. But first make sure the printcores are properly placed into the slots ("until you hear a click"). A misplaced core could trigger the I2C error.

Hm... ganz so einfach ist das nicht. Die (non-commercial!) Open Source Lizenz von Ultimaker bezieht sich auf das Nachbauen für den privaten Gebrauch. Wenn Du Dir also die Komponenten besorgst und den Drucker zusammenbaust, dann geht das mit der Lizenz voll in Ordnung. Wenn aber ein anderer Hersteller den Drucker kopiert und Dir verkauft, dann verletzt er die Lizenz. Faktisch vertreibt er eine Fälschung. Vermutlich wird das dem Zoll nicht auffallen wenn nicht Ultimaker draufsteht. Falls sogar die Logos kopiert werden, dann könnte es gut sein, dass die Ware hängenbleibt. Ultimaker geht übrigens (meiner Meinung nach zu Recht) rechtlich gegen solche Kopien mit gefälschtem Logo vor. Ein anderer Aspekt, den Du Dir überlegen musst ist die Sicherheit des Druckers. Ultimaker hat die CE-Konformität für die Modelle der 2er und 3er Serie erklärt. Das bedeutet das so Dinge wie die EU Maschinenrichtlinie eingehalten werden. Das ist bei Kopien, namentlich solchen aus China, nicht gegeben. Das "CE" auf chinesischen Produkten ist übrigens nicht das CE-Gütezeichen sonder ein absichtlich nahezu identisch gestaltetes Logo, das für chinesische Produktion steht. Wenn also Dein Budget nicht für einen originalen Ultimaker ausreicht, dann würde ich Dir empfehlen, eher in einen günstigeren, bekannten, offiziellen Bausatz oder Drucker zu investieren als in einen Klon.

just make sure you have an Ultimaker mainboard with 5 stepper drivers installed.but

TFN and TFT have the same specs (3dsolex). TFM from UM are also actually the same.

Vermutlich wirst Du noch etwa zwei Monate warten müssen.

Maybe some facets with a wrong surface normal? What software was the object made with? You may try to run your stl file through netfabb online repair service. Maybe it looks different afterwards even in Cura?

Do you have a picture of that cavity by accident? That would be very interesting to see.

It is indeed a bit strange that the UM3 stays dead after a power cut. I could imagine it does this after a voltage spike or rather the PSU does this but then it would come back after a while and certainly cannot be reanimated by using the main switch of the printer. Are you sure no other fuse or similar in your house was involved? The power switch was still on, the PSU had power and the printer did nothing, no fan, no led, no display? The question about the UPS cannot be answered with a simple yes or no. It strongly depends where you living, i.e. how stable your power grid is. In some locations you might not be able to print even an Ultimaker robot without power cut while here in Switzerland where I live, I think I had only one case of a very short power cut which stopped a printer in four years.

Maybe it's a silly idea but what about introducing an acceleration/deceleration for the line type change? Such an acceleration would go over a certain print length, i.e. it might include even a large number of print moves. The reference speed should of course be the slower one. If a print is not large enough the infill speed could be reached it would just print the infill at a lower speed. An alternative could be to print the infill a bit hotter and have the firmware of the printer adjusting speed to current temperature. But that's more tricky as it depends on both the material properties such as density, heat capacity etc. and the heat capacity and heat transfer rate of the hotend.

Afaik unprogrammed spools cannot be programmed with the printer. You may want to give your reseller a feedback about the issue so it can be registered in the QC chain. Of course you still can use the filament. You just have to select PLA on the printer.

@Traveler218: I assume you already ruled out that the glass is not flat enough?

Unfortunately the freezer trick doesn't work with the sheets, at least not with PC. But afaik @neotko knows a trick with window cleaner?