Framar

Cura give you theorical weight one you have slice your model. Maybe you can start by comparing what Cura estimates with what you get; one model at a time.

What if you change slightly the line width in Cura?

If your using dual print head make sure you are adjusting the setting on the proper head since they you set different value fore each. As Greg pointed out the initial horizontal expansion should be the seeting to adjust. Good luck!

J'ai eu ce problème récemment en impression ABS + PVA. L'extrudeur de PVA me donnait toujours cette alarme. C'est alors que j'ai réalisé que l'impression de PVA s'était décollé du plateau et que lorsque la buse extrudait le PVA, la buse était en contact avec la partie imprimée et le PVA avait de la difficulté à s'écouler...

Bowden tube clips. I keep losing them all the time. I've printed some in tought PLA.

Using gyroid infill improved infill quality (in my case)

You can use support blocker and assign them more walls.

Can you post the model file and the project file ?

If you are to a point of replacing the printcore you have nothing to loose to dissamble the nozzle and cleanit manually (drilling the PVA) and put it back together. I used to to that once and the printcore was saved.

Your model is probably wrong. I can try fixing the model using the STL but would be easier sith a STEP file. Can you post your CAD file?

Tell me if I'm wrong but the problem seems to appear on the layer where you only have the post printing (meaning that no more walls were printed?) If that so, maybe you did not had enought cooling time between each layer. That would explain why you got more stringing too ...

Quelle version de cura ?

I think Makerbot is part os Stratasys now. I would expect good quality and support from that company. I haven't seen the printer myself but I would consider it if priced similar to S5 / Raise E2.

When printing with Polypropylene I have to add 1% shrink factor to get close enought end dimensions. Otherwise I don't use it. I mostly adjust the horizontal expansion to get precise dimensions.

Well you can try to dissamble the nozzle, clean it and put it back. I've used guitar strings or bristtles from a metalic cleaning brush to save an clogged print core. On the next print I checked more often that there was no leakage at the nozzle. I don't know that material but can a 0,8mm print core being a better solution?

By looking at the part design it's cleat that some areas need support. Were you using PLA support or PVA support? You can add a roof to the support structure it will improve surface quality.

@Smithy, I think you can download the profile from the marketplace. In my case I used the generic ABS settings and only slowdown the printing speed to 30mm/s (Otherwise layer adhesion might not be as good as expected).

Considering that the E2 has an enclosure and HEPA filters right out of the box I think it offer better value. Also the index system allow you to print identical parts faster. I'm not too impressed with our S5 print quality (assuming the S3 would give similar results) E2 would be my pick.

I do print PP (ultimaker brand) on our S5. It is easy to print; the bed plate adhesion is tricky so it is better to use packaging tape. Also the dimensions would be smaller than CAD model since PP has a high shrink factor. As for the layer adhesion it never been an issue, in fact it is the most impact resistant material I've printed. You can litterally throw your part as hard as you can it it won't break.

Nice model. Support position is tricky. Sorry I don't have any tip for you.

In such case I would use a thin block as a support blocker and assign it a 100% infill. Or I would split the 3D model at the location Where the 100% infill is needed and stack them on each other so you get top layer of the fisrt block and then bottom layer of the second one.

I think that 3D PRINTING NERD has made a video about the different material you can print. Have a look on his YouTube channel.

Warm water really makes a big difference (2x faster). I usually drop my 3D printed parts in a large bucket. Since I don'T have any agitator I replace the water every 2-4 hours. Usually it takes 8 to 24 hours to dissolve the PVA depending on the quantity to dissolve. You can get it done quicker if you remove most of the PVA with pliers first. Or even better, if you can use PLA as support structure and use PVA only for the support roof. Then you can get really clean part quicker but not all part design is good for that option.

I like Filamentum too. And it is true that it is easier to get 1,75mm filament than 2,85mm...

Make sure your spool of PVC is dry.