Gero

The CAD integration sounds really great! The first Slicer with this feature. But here is the thing: I will probably never use it. At least as long as this feature is in a subscription with that price tag. From a business standpoint, I can totally understand why Ultimaker wants people in a subscription plan. Most of the benefits in that Professional plan sound great... if you start with 3D printing. All those courses and guides are great, but what is really useful for somebody who works since a couple of years with 3D printers and knows how to design, how to choose the right material, how to optimize settings for individual parts? The library is great to work with, but when I just want to start a print from Cura, printing over network or even the cloud is faster than sending it to the library first just to start it from there. I save the project to a hard drive afterwards and have everything together. The CAD integration sounds great. I only need to export my designs as .step to save and print them. But I can also export them one time as .stl and work with that. I am speaking as someone who has a small startup with 3D printers. All those features in that subscription are nice to have, but just not worth the 1500€ I had to pay with the current number of printers...

Just found this thread while searching the forum for ASA threads because I too face some problems currently. I use the BASF ASA black. The first tests (Benchy ofc) had some huge warping issues. After reading this thread I checked the cooling settings in the profile which I got from the marketplace. For some reason its telling me to print with the fan on 100%. For any ABS/ASA filament that kinda seems not right to me. I set it to 1% and started a new print. The warping issue now wasn't as near as bad as the first attempt. But the overhangs on the Benchy were looking really bad. So I went up to 15% fan speed. The quality now is way better as with the fan speed on 1%... However, I am now facing the problem of really weak layer adhesion. The print quality looks great while printing with 260°C on the nozzle, 15% cooling fan and the preset 0,1mm layer height, but a weak print where I can take the Benchy with my bare hands apart isn't really useful... I will try some slower speeds and some different cooling settings in the profile to make sure that no cooling thresholds are messing up my fan speed settings in the tune tab, but so far I am a bit disappointed in the material profile because I don't see the base settings producing any strong parts for the BASF ASA.

I would say the collet issue is the root of the problem. This is the parts with the metal teeth that holds the tube. Sometimes it can help to shorten the tube a bit because it can remove the deep marks on the outside of the tube if there are any. I had my problem after I changed all tubes and collets on my printer for the "1 year maintenance". This one collet seemed to be a bad one. It didn't happen often or on every print, but from time to time. Changing the collet fixed it for me with no other errors.

I had this error once as well. I can confirm that changing the coupling collet fixed it, although I also tried shortening the tube.

Great presentation. But I have to ask this question: What is the main difference between PETG and CPE from Ultimaker? What are the differences that I should keep in mind to make the decision on what material to choose? From what I can see PETG can handle a slightly higher temperature (70°C for CPE, 76°C for PETG; based on the data sheets), has some more colours to offer and is just a couple of euros cheaper. I often read that CPE is Ultimakers PETG. That's why I have to ask 🙂

There is no feature to turn the skin before the walls. The skin layers are printed best after the walls. I would say that you might have some adhesion issues here. I have to option in mind here: try some settings to make the adhesion for the first layer easier. Try a higher first line height (like 0.25mm) and an increased first layer with (like 120%). Print the first layer slow (20 or even 15mm/s). I kinda guess from experience that your nozzle is carrying the first printed hole line away? Second idea: remove the bottom layers (by setting them to 0) and check infill before the walls. This way you might not have a 100% solid bottom layer, but the infill structures, so you achieve somehow what you want...

Great to hear that! I have multiple Ultimaker printers and was really excited to try out the digital library function when 4.9 was announced. Sadly, with those bugs it was better to switch back to 4.8 which didn't have the "save to library" function. Looking forward for it!

Are you using cura4.9? There seems to be a bug which causes all the Ultimaker S-Line printers not to correctly purge/re-retract at the start of a print with the second nozzle. Switch to cura4.8 and try the same print again. The "Purge blob" function also doesn't work in cura4.9, so for Ultimaker printers cura4.8 seems better for the moment.

I print TPU on one of my Ender 3s all the time. Took me quite some time to get the settings right. I also have a direct drive one which needs some different settings, but is also working great now. I use a retrac distance of 2.5mm with a speed of 50mm/s. I also enabled z hop with a height of 0.4 mm to avoid any "antennas". All printing speeds are set to 20mm/s with a hot end on 225°C.

A little update: A simple "+" is also not working and disrupts the transmission of the file into the cloud. There might be even more signs that don't work.

Hello there. It seems I found the issue, why some printers rarely have the status "printing" without any progress bar displayed. This appears to happen when the active leveling process at the start of the print failed. Like when one of the nozzles didn't touch the build plate, but the printer somehow thinks so. In this case the printer displays the active leveling as failed, aborts the print job and homes. Most of the times the printer tries the same print job again afterwards. When the active leveling process works in the second attempt the printer works on the print job as normal. However the DF seems to have a problem with it. It seems the printer is telling the DF only that it is printing, but not on what and for how long. See the attached picture in this thread for how it looks in the DF. It is normally great that the printer in case of a failed leveling gives the print job a second try, but currently this second attempt is loosing all its functions in the DF. It would be great if the DF could also be aware of the second attempt. Or the second attempt is blocked, but displayed by the DF so the user can check the printer and start the print job again. Hope that helps.

Update: Alright. After 2 days of testing everything in the network setup, reinstalling cura, resetting printers, multiple times, creating a new DF account and even setting up a new wifi network, I finally found the issue. It was the print job file name! The file came from a co-worker who used a comma between the version numbers, in this case "v3,1". As the printer does not have a problem with this when printing over a USB stick or sending the print job over the network, it took me 2 full days to find that out. Even more strange is, the "error" I see when sending this file. It's a short disconnect symbol on the printer which made me think it was a connection related issue. This might trouble other users as well because there was never a mentioning of not working signs in the file name. This might be something to take a look at? @ctbeke

Hello there. I have the problem that I can't send print jobs via the cloud-print-function to my UMS3. The printer is visible in the DF, I can check the camera feed via the web-interface. Cura even detects the loaded materials from the printer via the cloud. But when I click on the "Print via cloud" button nothing happens. I noticed that the little blue cloud symbol on the selected printer in the top right disappears for a second after I clicked on sending and changes into a "cloud disconnected" symbol. The blue connected symbol than comes back.The printer stays visible in the DF the whole time. I already did multiple "Digital Factory Resets" on the printer and added him back into the DF without any issues. But sending a print job simply doesn't work somehow. Any ideas?

Hello there. Does the UM2+C have hardened extruder gears like the UMS3 and S5 for abrasive materials? I know I can upgrade the nozzle of the UM2+C with a Rubin nozzle but can the rest of the printer handle abrasive materials as well? Thanks in advance.

I am currently thinking about getting a material station for my S5. I know about the other features and how I could improve my work with the S5 with it. Besides that, it would be a 'nice to have' and probably fun to play with. But one thing I don't understand is, why is the material station holding the humidity at 'only' 40%?As far as I can tell from my own experience, something low as 10-20% works great for high Hygroscopic materials like Nylon and PVA (which I use a lot). Were there some humidity tests at Ultimaker which say 40% works great or is this the best the material station can do?I have yet to see an actual review from someone with the material station, but from what I can read in the forum from time to time is that some users have problems with PVA regarding retraction and broken filament. To me that sounds like humidity problems... This is currently the main problem that holds me back getting a material station. Could someone maybe explain this to me or share his experience? Thanks in advance.

Hi everybody. I recently made a CURA slicing test on all my different machines I got: -Windows 10 PC which is my strongest machine -Apple MacBook Pro 2020 with M1 chip -IMac form 2017 with Windows in Dual-boot My testing shows that CURA isn't optimized for the M1 chip yet (judging by the results). Is this something for the future? Judging by other speed tests I did the slicing speed on optimized M1 software should beat most other windows Pc's... Cheers!

I found out that it is the material type that throws cura out. Duplicate the generic ABS profile and change what you need to change, but don't touch the material type. As long as you change the density of your material, it works fine. Yes, you have to load the material as generic abs on ultimaker printers in order to make it work... This way it works fine with custom materials in cura. But I agree with you: This is something that should get fixed. Either give us more generic material choices or just let any custom material work.

Based on my experience I would take a look at the feeder. Maybe the PVA was already worn down and there is some PVA dust in the feeder. I also had the error two times in the past telling me the feeder was out of the filament when there still was plenty on the role. Maybe quickly open the feeder and clean it. Should be a quick thing to check for before doing anything else...

It is actually a food dehydrator which I modify to suit as a spool heat chamber... It's this one here: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0012US5Q8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&language=en_GB&psc=1

Never heard of this adhesion stick you used. Gonna recommend Magigoo for pretty much everything. I used almost all different varieties they got and so far they all work great. But most importantly, make sure you spool is dry. I wouldn't trust new spools completely. I print all my spools from a heated chamber which runs at 40-45°C 24/7. Getting those fine stringing "hairs" everywhere indicates a possible wet spool.

Would guess that at those points the wall is a bit thicker so that the inner wall line isn't enough to close the gaps. Try to set the setting "Fill gaps between walls" to "nowhere" (in the shell tab). Might be the fastest way to get what you want.

I am using the Ultimaker Nylon for almost 90% of my prints in the S3. As I sell those printed parts to costumers, I needed a good quality and reliable bed adhesion. So I am using the Filafarm flex solution. But the key for the right adhesion without warping and super easy removal is the bed temperature for me. 40°C is the sweet spot there. For small parts I add some Magigoo PA, but for most prints a clean bed is already enough. With the bed temperature cura suggest for the material profile, I often get warping parts...

I can only confirm this! Since cura 4.4 I ALWAYS save any new custom profile or material as an exported file in an extra folder. This is gonna save you A LOT of hassle if something goes wrong. Cura crash, new, version, new PC, corrupt backup, etc. If you always export your new settings/profiles you are (mostly) save from those events. Just save your stuff! Export everything. At least before updating! (Also, don't reinstall your old cura version. you never know what bugs you might get. personally I always keep the last 3 versions on my system. just to be safe...)

I suggest a temp tower. I was surprised to see that a bit harder TPU I had printed best at 218°C. Another TPU with 98A prints good at 225°C. I think people often get told to print TPU at higher temps than actually needed. So again, a temp should clear the question about the right temp. (About the speed, I print all TPUs at 25mm/s, for everything (!), not just the setting "General print speed")

Just the idea I got while reading your post: Maybe your Aquasys spool has been already too dry. I already read some posts that at the point where PVA gets too dry it becomes more and more brittle. This can also result in more grinding. I just read the data sheet and it states the filament should not get to 80°C before printing or it could lead to bad extrusion. Maybe a drying temperature of 70°C is too high. I have my PVA (different brand tho) also in a heated spool holder, at 40°C. I would just suggest the following: let your spool open for 2 hours, dry it at 40°C-45°C for 2 hours, and try again. If you have the heated spool holder, print directly out of it with the temperature set to around 40°C. This would be my next test based on my experience.