Torgeir

Hi @Andrew_W Check according to this routine: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011706239-ER65-Extrusion-problem-detected Torgeir

Hi folks, Could not agree more about "strength" and 100 % infill. Also, if the object is compressed/loaded, -I'll always orient the force direction in the horizontal (X/Y) direction. I've been printing with nylon quite a lot and using 100 % infill and closed up printer to keep the temp on the "upper" bed temp are the way to go.. Z axis are always the weak point when loading our fff built objects. Interesting topics. Torgeir

Well, -if you use the PT100 directly on the Temp2 input of the 1.5.7 board, your indicated temperature will be way of the "correct value".. If you plan to use the 3 temp input on this board using PT100, you'll need to remove all 3 pull up resistors that are connected to each input line and you must use an E3D PT100 amplifier for each of the 3 inputs. This is the three 4.7 Kohm (4700 ohm) resistors to be removed, R23, R21 and R4. Then you can connect the E3D amplifiers output to each of Temp inputs on the 1.5.7 board. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @3dprntz All professional made PT100 connection wires are normally shielded with a copper braid. This copper braid is not connected to ANY of the two wires (or more wires) connected to the "precision platinum resistor". The amplifier used for this sensor is of differential type, so no ground to any of those two inputs! If there is a copper braid shielding, this wire is connected to ground to prevent unwanted electromagnetic disturbances to enter and give error to our temperature reading. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Brad and anyone else, "Long" time no seen.. Missed this one, -not very active in here those days. Anyway, I'll think most people do not know how good your "tools" is for 3 D printing, esp. when it come to tuning different types of filament for optimal result. Well, here it goes: As Cura 5.0 and 5.1 arrived, you were asked to uninstall the "Auto Tower" plugin found under the menu "Extension" in Cura and do a re installation of this plugin. As I'm using this plugin for tuning, I've never uninstalled Brads plugin cause it working perfect in Curas ver. 14.3.1 🙂 When installing this plugin, you have to install OpenSCAD a freeware. (I'm going to install the new version after some more testing of 5.1) ------------------------------------- OpenSCAD version 2021.01 Copyright (C) 2009-2021 The OpenSCAD Developers License This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation; either version 2 of the License, or (at your option) any later version. Please visit this link for a copy of the license: GPL 2.0 ---------------------------------------- Here is some pictures of how it looks in Cura. Here is Cura 14.3.1 This is how "Auto Tower" looks under "Extension" tab. Here you'll see all possible "Auto Tower" types that's generated to the heat bed by "OpenSCAD". First one is "Fan Tower" and you can define a few parameters as well, (same for the other "Auto Towers"). First the "stl file" of the "Fan Tower" and ofc you van use preview as on any other model. Next is the "Retraction Towers", one for the distance and the other for the speed. Here is the "Retraction Tower" versus Speed. The last one I'll show is a PLA filament "Temperature Tower" ranging from (220 to 180) Deg. Celsius. Here you'll see there is a few of the most common filaments, but you can add and test out your favorite filament with great result. Hope this give some more interest in this tool. Thank you Brad. Torgeir

Hi @JSched, Never had any feedback on this one, so I do not know, however -using the "gcode file" and view it in Cura will actually give you a "real" picture of how your object will lock like when printed! PS. You need to tell Cura to be able to view the "gcode files" in the "setup settings" -when installing Cura. If you have not done this, you'll have to reinstall the version of Cura you're using and tell Cura that you want to be able to view "gcode files" as well. This is the important message in here. Happy 3D printing. Torgeir

Hi @elnadav12, Thanks for the feedback, great finding. I'm using the same firmware version (slightly modified for my printer). Uneven feeding can occurs due to too low current setting, Extruder current setting is 1250 mA. Good catch. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr. I'm glad you like it, but this is "the power" of this community -not me.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @elnadav12, Been away for some times.. Just wonder if your nozzle is just too big or maybe to much worn? As you've changed parts in order to any remove mechanical play(?). This lines might move slightly in and out due to worn out -or too big nozzle size. Have a look at this -I'll assuming you're using a standard size 0.4 mm. However, your nozzle tip looks "some" worn to me (see last picture). Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @oskars This is my first reply in here -after some time abroad.. You should go here: https://www.elfadistrelec.no/en/platinum-smd-temperature-sensor-50-150-pt100-jumo-906125-pcs-1503-00/p/17668874 This is Elfa, a great electronic dealer in Scandinavia. You'll need a PT100 in SMD version 2 mm length. Just search/order for this type no: PCS 1.1302.1 This is a SMD PT100 with temp span from -50 to 150 deg C. Regards Torgeir

Hi Maarten, This is not the easiest thing to print for sure. 🙂 A spool of though PLA with no seal for some time -may have attracted water. When printing a filament with too much water, the flow can vary widely and can sometimes be spit out. Such filament need to be dried for some time, so I'll assume that a fresh roll of TPLA will do the trick.. I'm using a food drier to dry out water from such affected filament. I'm also storing filament rolls into a sealed storage box, containing silica bags and a blue tooth moisture meter. Have several boxes like this and working very well. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Flutelab, welcome in here! When I first look at the picture you added, I'd realized that Cura is set to an UM3 printer, -not an UM S3! So first, configure -select an UM S3 printer and things might look better.. Anyway, we do not know the object you're trying to print, so please save the "project file" and attache it here, then "someone" can have a look at your problem and give you some advice if needed. Just go to; "file", then select save "project" and attach it here. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @rowiac, I do not think this is the one, -but "maybe" a previous version of the version I've tried to upload.. However, the version of this UM2 duct I'd uploaded above was wrong, - so I've replaced it with the correct one that a "bit" more "aerodynamic" shaped.. PS. I've an UM2E, but this duct fit all versions. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi @kupfeli, Thanks for the reply, way to go. Regards Torgeir

Hi @kupfeli, The heat bed is a floating heater element, so no need to select polarity here. Also, the text mean input 24 V with current (needed minimum) 7.5 Amp. The PT100 (platinum sensor) is also a floating "resistor", -so neither this connection is polarity required. As you ordered all stuff for the bed, why not just change all? In the past, there was "some" problem with the connection of the high power wires to the bed. There was a few problem with the bed sensor PT100, that's not much of a problem anymore. But for folks using this "exotic" high temperature filament, things really put those components to the the edge and may expect some more error as shorter life span for those items is sure to be seen. Hope this help. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr, I've been looking inside here for this spacer (fan duct), -but by some reason this posting is gone. However, I have the gcode file (for an UM2) printer. It's printed at 205 deg. C. with a 0.4 mm nozzle and using PLA. (Sliced with Cura 2.3.1 I'll think). The file is attached here: Edited: Wrong duct was previously uploaded here, sorry folks.. Here is the correct one: UM2E_Duct.gcode Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flashphilm, Here's two links how I've made a geared stepper for the filament feeder system. You'll also see several other improvements you can do if you like. Most of this work done in 2016 and still working great. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flashphilm, welcome in here. What you describe here is "kind of" typical if your feeder "stepper current" setting is to lo (normal current setting here is 1250 mA). When it come to a certain tension the stepper suddenly cannot hold the load anymore and when the stepper motor releases, the built-up pressure in the bowden pipe will act as a compression spring, so that the stepper motor loses many steps backwards. This means that you get low extrusion, because the pressure needed to provide the necessary extrusion suddenly disappears. (Based on the fact this have been an ongoing issue over the years in your UM2..) Another alternative are to slow down the printing speed, cause this will not ask for this "high" demand from the feeder. Build your own gear box for your UM2. A couple of very effective upgrade is to build a belt geared feeder using the same feeder unit (the black box) holding the knurled feeder wheel on it's own shaft 5 mm including a 32 (teeth) pulley that's also holding two bearings. On the new stepper motor(200 step/rev) requested you'll need a 16 (teeth) pulley (5 mm) plus a belt (same as the short one used on the X / Y stepper motors). The above is what I'm using. Of course, printed my own designed gearing house including a release handle to make ease feeding the filament past the feeder unit. There is also another feature I'm using, - turning the feeder unit upside down. This will make the feeder to grab the filament on the inside of the "looped filament" arriving from the roll. This will increase the efficiency of the feeder system due to less friction. Using this method, you will obtain a 2:1 gear that's double the torque with no need to change the firmware.. This is a very cheap way of improving your old UM2.. There is several other geared units around, so just find the one for you. However, you may also upgrade by using the "UM2+" versions new feeder - this require a change in your firmware. If you go for the full upgrade to "UM2+ Kit", including an Ollson block (w 4 different nozzles) plus a spacer to replace the compression spring, two new 6 mm axes and the new feeder. Ofc., this kit also including a new stepper motor for the feeding unit -and last the plus sign to mark your printer UM2+. Just my thoughts. The choice is all yours. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @asmunroh, Hi Åsmund. If you can share you "project" file, -someone may have a look at the model just to see if it's the file, -or your S3 is doing this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @evogas, Welcome in here. At first glance, -it looks like the preparation of the glass plate (heat bed) is not "cleaned"/prepared properly. Parts of the bed may have some issues that's reduced the fixture to the bed.. The bed cleaning is "super" important! But, -It's really difficult to say anything more about your problem, as no other info is given -but the picture. You should save this "object" as a project file, this will produce a file "-------.3mf" that's show your printer -plus setting (in Cura), filament type and the object you're printing. Sure post it here.. I'm sure someone will have a look at it. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Brad, I'll PT you the config file and the log file. Torgeir

Hi Brad, I've also tried with Win10 and Cura 4.13 (beta) plus Cura 4.12.1 with no success. Here's a screen dump of message. The two files "appear" to be the same, but haven't investigated.. so not that sure.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, this is interesting, I've looked into this for some time and can see this is a panel made for an air craft "simulator" or maybe an "experimental" aircraft? Those tiny letters should really need a 0.25 nozzle in order to print nicely.. But would not this letters be more easy to print if they are immersed in the panel? If you're using black filament for the panel you can add white paint into the letters and make them more visible. Also, you should try the last version of Cura (4.13 Beta), as it print this kind of object much better. This HUD panel is much easier to print than the "Audio -select" panel. As Greg "says", there is a little tuning to do, but look much better now, great progress. Way to go.. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @danz409, Well, this one do not fit you printer very well. You'll need a 24 V heater and this "thermistor" is not as accurate as the PT100 platinum thermistor. (This is the one used in UM2). The better choice would be to upgrade to "the Olsson block". You could use the same heater and temp sensor as on an standard UM2, well if the wires is not ruined.? And sure the firmware need to be changed for the E3d kit.. I bought this kit in Japan, just because it was cheap, -but I'll never going to install this on my UM2+. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @oskars, Not a problem at all 🙂.. I do not think your new fan mount create any problem here. What we're seeing here is "kind of" typical for a standard UM2 printing this model for "filament flow test". The problem might be a reduced diameter where the coupler meet the flange of the Olsson block, so if the torque is a little to hard -the pressure and "some" high temperature may lead to squeezing this critical part of the coupler. If you try to feed the filament by pushing it by hand, it should feed easily, if not check the coupler. Check the coupler passage and the nozzle/housing for "old" collected debris (by using atomic pull). The tension of the special steel nut, holding the nozzle and delivering cooling to the upper part of the extruder. Tip: (Put a little marker on this "special nut" and the base plate so you can check that the nut stay in place.) You also need to use copper paste (to improve the heat transfer) where this nut connect to the base plate of the aluminum "house" containing the cooling radiator. You've to screw this nut until you feel it just met the stop, then turn it a quarter of turn more (90 deg.). This is what I'm using, -sure I print regularly at +255 deg., C. There is a little spacer, that can be printed an installed to space up the aft cooling fan from the aluminum rib. This little "modification" really improve the flow through the radiator. Yes, I'm been using this from day one. Another thing you can do, is to install the black feeder the reverse way, yes turn it 180 deg. This will make your filament go the wrong way, but this can be corrected by swapping two off the wires at the stepper motor connector. This will move the grooved groove from the outside to the inside of the bent filament that runs through the bowden tube. The result of this is less friction, that's reduce the force needed to feed the filament. Since you did not upgrade the feeder unit, this might help to get it working again. That's a bit to do, -but will "normally" work.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir. Ps. I've been writing about all this before, I've to look around a bit.