Torgeir

Off topic. Ehmm.. No not that quick, Greg. I'm just awake a few hour before you're. 😁 Also digging into another problem -suddenly popping up.. 😉 Torgeir

Hi @Liampeffers Welcome in here. There is nothing wrong here, -except that the wall thickness at this point is "super tiny", so there is no printer like we're using that can handle such a sharp edge. You'll need to redesign your model so the wall thickness have width the printer can handle. Cura slicer in preview mode will show how your model will look like as it "know" the limitation.. Just select a wall size at "around" 0.3 mm and see how this goes. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Innhoster So you've only updated the print head from the UM2+ kit? You have to choose firmware for an UM2 with an Olson heat block.. Make sure you have installed an UM2 printer with Olsson block in your Cura slicer. Select the printer in Cura and update your firmware like this; That should do it. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @FRabe, Well, I've printed with Taulman Bridge Nylon.. For this I'm using my UM2E+, -my experimental printer. First, you need to "prepare" a treatment of the heat bed! 1) Clean the heat bed. 2) Make a mixture of diluted PLA glue (carpenter wood glue) maybe better known nowadays as; "Pritt white glue". It will be; one part of "Pritt" and 15 parts of water approx. Mix it well! 3) Use a "foam" brush and cover the needed area with this "glue mixture" -and let dry - then repeat three times! This will keep your model onto the bed during printing (using bed temp of (60-65) deg. Celsius). Use hand warm water bath to remove the model from the bed, if it stick, give it some time to loosen. Next, Cover the top (if you do not have the air manager). On the UM2E+ I'm using a plastic box for this purpose. This is important, as nylon is "sensitive" for cold drafts from above. Another important trick that's helps allot, is using draft shield, you'll find it under "experimental". The print temperature I'm use is (253-255) deg. Celsius. Finally, -do print some slow, (30-40) mm/sec, in order to have good adhesion. The inside printer "camber" temperature is important to keep stable and avoid draft. I've been printing "super" tiny nylon membrane and solid (100% infill) blocks using this method with great result. 🙂 That's all. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @CaeZer. Welcome in here. Not very easy to answer, -cause it depend much of the object you're printing. Sometimes we want it tiny and light, others "light" and strong.. But still single wall.. There is lots of tread about this in here to learn from. You may also try printing model aircraft wing parts with "added" profile settings. Some sellers give parts of model for free to test how their products looks after printing. Often you'll need to adjust and adapt profiles to fit your printer. In the example in this tread, all the settings are given. If you download the above project file, it contain the model and all printer settings for printing his model. Here is the file adapted "some -in fact very little" for my printer, an UM2E+: For this file you'll need to use "Cura version; Arachne Beta". UM2E_Head2_Arachne_Beta.3mf To see how this file looks in Cura viewer, save the file for printing -without modifying anything, -then open the saved gcode file. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr, Well, the nozzle in general is important -as many other parts of the printing process. I do not know much about "double/multi" channel nozzles, but for sure they are made to improve heat transfer to the filament flowing through the nozzle and this in order to print faster.. Higher speed will always degrade precision by some degree. I'll think that if you want to have precision, you have to use the original nozzles and use the advised settings -"engineer setting". How did the test go? Thanks Torgeir

Yes, the easy thing first.. 👍 I've also seen a strange nozzle delivering a little more on one side.. Well, good luck with testing.. Torgeir

I'll agree with @Smithy as there is better setting for better precision, but I'll think there is more mechanical to check, -cause this is a little to much of an error -IMO. So I would like to know how the two sliding bearing inside the head is, -or simply do you have ANY play here? You can check this easily without power up the printer. Try to move the head fore and aft (Y axis) without moving the head, if there is any play you will easily feel it. Do the same with the X axis. The ting is there can be play that only occur at some places on the bed -but feels OK elsewhere. Also, are the two 6 mm axis absolute strait? When try to tune the printer up to specs, the above is for sure a must. Been there done that. Thanks Torgeir There is more, but what about this?

I've just answered this issue in another tread 15 minute ago. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there. I would check that the two 6 mm shafts is absolute parallel with the two rotating 8 mm shafts it is moving in between. I.E. The shaft going across (if you look into the printer) is the X shaft as head go along this shaft. There is a tool you can print (we'll need two of them), that can be "clamped" to the (8 & 6)mm shafts in order to fine adjust the pulleye position by unscrew the two setscrews. To just have an idea of how much off it is, use a caliper and measure between the shafts, -or any fixed object that can be used as a metering device to see that the relative distance is the same. There is 8 places to check.. Here's the Ultimaker site for this problem. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879-How-to-align-the-axles-on-your-Ultimaker-printer Thanks Torgeir

Octoprint, aha.. This app can do -lots of thing, -even "adjust" the firmware... So print this vase without using the Octoprint and see the difference. Octoprint is connected to the printer using the USB to Raspberry PI and from here you're connected via ethernet (LAN) to your PC or -phone. Lots of people use it for remote control and camera monitoring. This app can be very handy, -but you need to know it very well! Thanks Torgeir

This show how a good tuned printer can perform if the model is right. 😏 Well done. Torgeir

@Mlogue9 Hi Matt. I've to say this is one of the best example I've seen in here of using "spiralize mode". The retractions you observed in the very beginning is Cura making the right "pitch path" before starting "spiralizing". Use "Notepad++" and look at the gcode. From layer 4 -and on, Cura start spiralizing. I've checked your gcode file using Cura 4.10.0 and also with S3D (another brand of gcode viewer). Both of them showed a nice model in preview mode. There might be something I've missed, but I'm sure @GregValiant can have a look at this. Thanks Torgeir

You're welcome. I printed this spacer, however it started to crimp due to the heat -so I just bought the spacer to avoid leakage.. With your new Bondtech, I'll think a steel spacer is a must -due to the hi pressure it can make. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr, I'll think @gr5, nailed your problem. You should get read of that spring and use a steel spacer -as it will increase the life length of your coupler(s). Thanks Torgeir

@JaXXoN Hi Bernard. I know Fusion 360, Autocad variants and SolidWorks plus some more.. However, this is the first time I've heard about MoI3D. Have seen over the years that some of the CAD software had some problems with not snap lines properly together, resulting in line offset etc. Those small deviations might be hard to see, -normally, but for our drawn 3D objects this might cause problems. Fusion 360 from Autocad, is free to use for hobbyist use, but you can only save 10 3D files! So if you want to still use it, -you can and you can make a stl file of the drawn object, but you can't save your drawing! However, several in here use/have FreeCad and so do I, but I have not used it much to be honest. But people in here say FreeCad is a good alternative to make good drawing for Cura to slice.. I may try to print this file, but at the moment too busy with other stuff. 🙂 Good luck Cheers Torgeir

Hi @my3DBr How many E-steps are you using with this setup? They advice E-steps for an UM2+ to be "311", but this is for an 1.8 deg/step motor. (200 step/360 deg) Found here: https://www.bondtech.se/product/ddg-extruder/ As you have the old stepper (from UM2E) that's 0.9 deg/Step. (400 step/360 deg) According to this, -you'll need to double the number of steps by 2, I.E. E=2*311E=622 E-step, for your setup. If the E-step setting is too high, the stepper may miss step. Also, if the current setting is too low you may see missed step. Normal current setting for the feeder stepper motor (E1 or E2) is 1200 mA. Thanks Torgeir

@JaXXoN Hi Bernard. There was a problem with Cura detecting the inner wall. So I made this sphere in Fusion 360 (Autocad free version) Just 20 mm diameter and strait hole dia. 8 mm. The wall gradually increased from approx 70 deg. (0.4 mm to top 0.8 mm) and same at the bottom. Seems to be possible to print, but not sure how it will be. Here is a picture how it's looking in Cura Arachne Beta. Here's the your project file from Cura Arachne Beta; CFFFP_Sphere_Exp_Arachne_B_0_2mm.3mf And the gcode, but have not checked this one.. CFFFP_Sphere_Exp_Arachne_B_0_2mm.gcode Torgeir

Hi @philippe44 Have you checked that the two 6 mm axes are clicked in place to the four plastic holders -and are not loose? This can make your adjustment faulty.. Also, there could be play in between the head bearings and the axes at different places on the bed. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @JaXXoN I'll say this is the biggest printer I've seen in here -covering one cubic meter.. 👍 Self built? 🙂 The sphere you have here is a small and high resolution object (20X20X20)mm "approx". So printing this one with 0.2 mm layer height (0.4 mm nozzle) is not easy. Building up a single sphere model will always end up with a hole in the top, the only way to make this possible without a hole is just like you have done it. To keep the outside sphere, we'll gradually from inside (at app 75-85 deg) above/below and ofc. done when drawing the model. I've imported your project file into "Cura "Arachne Engine Beta" as this is the best slicer for such models IMO. The first picture is just with your original settings and here it is looking pretty much as in Cura 4.10.0 seen here; All pictures from above, where you can see the settings and the changes. Here are picture no 2, one change selected "Use Adaptive Layers"; Here the effect is seen, but some limited.. In this third picture I've reduced layer height from 0.2 mm to 0.1 mm ; Here you'll see a drastic "improvement", but the last part is a problem as the nozzle stay close for "some" time.. This last picture, just changed another parameter line width to 0.55 mm, kind of extreme but you can see this difference. By using Post processing script controlling those last layers temperature toward the top may be worth the effort.; Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Speckles You made the flow test good, I could see, -if there was a feeding problem, you would not be able to finish this test. The speed also increase for each flow setting up to max 10 mm3 /sec. This is why you have a this acceleration/resonance shadows that's worse in the upper flow rate area, but this result is quite normal for an UM2 types of printer. This is actually a good test to confirm that your UM2+ flow is up to standard.. My best advice would be to test with standard PLA, with printing temperature (200-210)deg. C., as this is more easy to handle -and will show you what is possible to make by printing with thermoplastic. You have chosen on of the "exotic" brand of PLA (FormFutura Volcano PLA) and this is not a good starting filament to learn from. For this filament there is so many parameters to handle in order to have a quality print, so -much more fighting before the fun can begin. When looking at the first layer of the project file you attached in here, I can see the first layer is not squished as it should be, the layers would normally be "glued" together to a solid flat figure(s) that's holding your object to the bed during the whole printing process. So never go higher than 0.27mm (default for 0.4 mm nozzle) height for this nozzle size. Do the nozzle height adjustment a several times, using a tiny ATM note, you should only feel that the note barely touch this note. I'm only making this adjustment after nozzle change or when the bed have been out for cleaning. Also, make sure that the bed is "super" clean without any fingermarks etc. A little more about this test object, the first segment (20 mm) is printed with low temperature (220 deg. C.,?.) The highest segment (from 100 mm and up) is printed with 220 deg. C. So here the 245 deg. C., is missing. This is done by using "post processing" script, in order to adjust the temperature with the gcode file during printing. Before printing with other filaments, make sure that the nozzle is free of debris from old filament, clean using "atomic Bobs" method using same type of filament lastly used! This is important. As UM2 type printers have manual temperature control, the Ultimaker2 "flavour" have no implemented temperature control. However, by changing setting for the printer in Cura to "RepRap" flavour like this: Here is the setting for filament with Ultimaker2 flavour: This with RepRap flavour: This way give better handling of the temperature during printing and you'll have a little better support by the profiles made for your printer. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @akayar Your model has a double wall, thou super tiny. As @gr5 said, in this case Cura's newest version "Arachne Engine Beta" (latest version) is the slicer for this problem. Cause there is two walls, the slicer try the closest path and this is why the surface is uneven esp. at the top because the wall distance increase at this place. With Cura Arachne Beta, you'll have much better control of the layer width. Using the default setting for my printer (UM2E+) and used fine profile (0.1 mm line height) and changed "Line width" to 0.5 mm. Checked the "Saved" gcode file in Cura Arachne Beta and found no issues, then opened the same file in S3D and the object was superb. (This is the best "water test" I can do to be reasonably sure that this print will "shine".) Thanks Torgeir

Hi @gr5 and @ZachariahS, I just made a little drawing of Cut Section of nozzle with heath block and coupler. This to illustrate the problem with a short nozzle with limited heat transfer due to "tread play", or printing to fast in general, both with increased temperature in order to solve the problem. As long as we're printing a round object this "can" work, however if we print an object with speed changes etc. "over temperature" will ruin your print at places. Here is the drawing, somewhat exaggerated to clarify the problem. Here is such a setup, bought in Asia 2018. (Having the above issues). If you have such a nozzle, it is important to screw the nozzle all the way to the flange stop against the heat block. You may also use heat sink compound to increase/improve the heath transfer to the nozzle. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Bernard, We're using "Adaptive Layers" to print overhang better, it's found under "Experimental". The new Cura Beta version "Arachne Engine Beta", -have much better line width control. But you'll need to tune a little. Torgeir

Hi @friedl_basson, This might complicate things, So I'm wonder if a "top-hat" might help you. I'm using a cheap one, easy to install and can also work as a dust protector.. 😄 The box I selected also stick out in the front and cover the filament roll as well. When printing, the tube and wire loom never touch the inside of the box. This arrangement prevent cold draft to enter the print object from above, the temperature will never go sky high as the hot air escape easily. I've also installed a fan on the top so bring those nasty stuff vented off, if needed. I would try this approach, as it worked very well with nylon and some other experiment filament I bought. In this case, I would cover the front as well -but leave a little leak at the bottom so you can adjust a little flow through, if needed. But with the room temp you mentioned, I'll doubt you'll really need it. May printer is always printing in the range (22-26) deg. C., but I'll still cover up to keep stable temp inside the printer. If you like to try, you'll need 4 hangers to put on the printer to support the box that is wider than the printer. Here's how this box look: Here is the hangers you'll need 4 of gcode file for UM2, plus the stl file: UM2_Plastic_Box_Holder.gcode PlasticBox_Holder_UM2.stl Anyway, if you try this good luck. Torgeir